Top 3 Oaxaca Markets Every Food Lover Should Visit

The traditional markets in Oaxaca offer insights into the region’s pre-Hispanic history, culinary traditions, and the every day life of its people. Mexican mercados can be overwhelming for some, and addictive for others. Their vibrant colors, smells, and sounds have always been a draw for me ever since childhood.

I fell in love with the markets in Oaxaca in 2006, when tourism was at an all-time low due to the teacher protests that made headlines in the United States. For me, mercados have always been a source of inspiration, which is why I wanted to share some of my personal favorites to visit, particularly if you are a food enthusiast. Each one is driving distance (between 30 and 60 minutes) from the city center and unique in its own regard.

While each market is open daily, I have highlighted the día de mercado, which is best day to visit because this is when the tianguis (weekly outdoor market) takes place. It is the biggest and most vibrant day of the week in each market. Vendors from surrounding villages come to sell fresh produce, handmade goods, traditional foods, livestock, and other items, offering a lively atmosphere with a rich display of local culture.

WEDNESDAY ETLA MARKET

(MERCADO MUNICIPAL DE VILLA DE ETLA)

When I’m in Oaxaca, I take a drive to Etla on Wednesdays simply to eat tamales and to buy cheese. The town of Villa de Etla is famous for its quesillo (Oaxacan cheese), which is used in many dishes throughout the region.

BEST DAY TO VISIT: WEDNESDAY

• The best day to visit the Etla market in Oaxaca is Wednesday

HOURS AND LOCATION

• Hours: The indoor market is daily from, 7:00AM – 5:00PM, but the día de mercado is on Wednesday
• PRO TIP: If you are staying somewhere with a kitchen, be sure to take a few tamales to-go! Also, if you’re already in the area, I highly recommend checking out Centro de las Artes de San Agustín (CASA), which was a former textile factory that is now a modern center for the arts
• Address: Mercado Municipal de Villa de Etla – Miguel Hidalgo, 68200 Villa de Etla, Oax., Mexico (about 50 minutes from Oaxaca’s centro histórico)

WHAT TO EAT

• Cheese: If you want to taste the best quesillo (Oaxaca string cheese) in all of Oaxaca, a visit to Etla is a must!
• Artisan ice cream: Try something new like nanche (a small yellow local fruit that’s smaller than a cherry) or leche quemada (burnt milk), or beso oaxaqueño (Oaxacan kiss) or stick to the classic, fresa (strawberry) and limón (lime)
• Tamales: These are arguably some of the best tamales I’ve tasted in all of Mexico; you’ll find two vendors in the indoor market with huge pots of steaming hot tamales. A few of my favorites include frijol (black beans), dulce (sweet tamales; these are bright pinkish red in color), and flor de calabaza (squash blossom) – honestly you can’t go wrong with any of them!
• Chiles rellenos: These are spicier than the ones in the U.S. made with poblano chiles because they’re made with local chiles de agua, which I love. I get them with a side of arroz rojo served with a hard-boiled egg
• Nicuatole or jello: Nicuatole is pre-Hispanic dessert reminiscent of jello, but made out of corn and sugar; the colorful jello selection is always fun, too

THURSDAY ZAACHILA MARKET

(Mercado Municipal de Villa de Zaachila)

The Zaachila Market, held every Thursday, traces its origins to the pre-Hispanic era when the town of Zaachila was the capital of the powerful Zapotec kingdom. As a major trading center, the market was a hub for indigenous communities to exchange pottery, textiles, and food. This tradition continued through the colonial period and today, the market is known for preserving its indigenous roots.

BEST DAY TO VISIT: THURSDAY

• The best day to visit the traditional Zapotec market in Zaachila is Thursday

HOURS AND LOCATION

• Hours: The indoor market is open daily from, 5:30AM – 9:00PM, although many of the vendors close earlier, and the día de mercado is Thursday
• PRO TIP: Be sure to grab a bite to eat at the Mercado Gastronómico, which is walking distance from the mercado; I like starting here (the tacos are delicious at any of the food stands) and then making my way to the market so I don’t show up on an empty stomach
• Address: Mercado Municipal Alarii – San Jacinto, 71250 Villa de Zaachila, Oaxaca, Mexico (about 35 minutes outside of Oaxaca’s centro histórico)

WHAT TO EAT

• Barbacoa de chivo: Zaachila is famous for its barbacoa, which is made out of slow-cooked goat meat and served with tortillas and fresh salsa
• Caña de azúcar: Freshly-cut sugar cane con limón y chile is one of my favorite snacks to munch on while we walk
• Tejate: This traditional chocolate-maize drink was once reserved for royalty
• Nieves (artisan ice cream) and paletas: Tuna (cactus fruit), queso (cheese), maracuyá (passion fruit), mango, queso, and coco (coconut) are a few of my favorite ice cream flavors, and I love lime or strawberry paletas.
• Mexican fruit cups: I love these with lime and chili, I’ve even found fresas con crema at this market, which was really good, too
• Artisan bread: You’ll find this in the indoor part of the market and I like the ones with tiny red sprinkles

SUNDAY TLACOLULA MARKET

(Mercado Municipal Martín González)

This is one of the oldest markets in Mesoamerica and is a great place to experience something different from the typical mercados in Oaxaca. Here, you can find fresh produce, prepared food, and everything from adorable miniature food magnets and large stone metates, to beautifully embroidered aprons and heavy duty tortilla presses. My favorite part of this market is watching the indigenous women, many of whom come from surrounding towns, as they bargain in their native Zapotec language, wearing floral scarves or rebozos wrapped messily around their heads. Then there’s the food. The food!

BEST DAY TO VISIT: SUNDAY

• The best day to visit the Tlacolula market is on Sunday

HOURS AND LOCATION

• Hours: The indoor market is open daily from, 6:00AM – 6:00PM, although many of the vendors close earlier and the día de mercado is Sunday
• PRO TIP: If you’re visiting in the hot summer months, grab an agua de naranja or agua de coco upon arrival to stay hydrated! Pack baby wipes, too because you’ll want something to clean your hands after all of that eating and shopping.
• Address: Mercado Municipal Martín González – Galeana 2, Tercera Secc, 70400 Tlacolula de Matamoros, Oax., Mexico (about 60 minutes outside of Oaxaca’s centro histórico)

WHAT TO EAT

Tlacolula’s Sunday market is truly a feast for the senses and there’s so much to eat and drink, Here are a few must-try items:

• Tlayudas: These are large, crispy corn tortillas topped with beans, cheese, and your choice of meat (usually tasajo or cecina); they’re a staple of Oaxacan cuisine and a must-try
• Quesadillas: Quesadillas are a popular street food found throughout Mexico, and the ones you’ll find in Oaxaca markets are particularly delicious
• Memelas: Memelas are similar to a quesadilla, but a little thicker; they’re flat (not folded), and topped with refried beans, cheese, and salsa. I always get mine with meat, avocado, and papas con chorizo
• Aguas frescas: My favorites at this market are agua de naranja and agua de coco
• Mexican candies: Most are topped with chili, for a sweet and spicy combo

If you loved this post, be sure to read about more of my favorite foods at the Tlacolula Sunday market. READ MORE

LOLA’S MARKET TRAVEL TIPS

Before you embark on a journey to any of the markets in Oaxaca, here are a few tips to keep in mind. Most markets are busy in the morning, and get even busier as the day progresses. Avoiding crowds is inevitable, so just embrace it!

WHAT TO TAKE AND WEAR TO THE MARKET

• Take cash: Most vendors at the market only accept cash, so be sure to bring plenty of pesos with you.
• Take change to use the restrooms: Always be sure to have spare change to use the public restrooms (yes, they charge to use the restrooms in Mexico, but it’s usually never more than $10 pesos or $0.50 USD). Look out for the “Sanitario” or “WC” signs.
• What to wear: Weather in Oaxaca can be unpredictable. It can go from hot, to rainy and cool in a matter of minutes. Wear comfortable, light clothing (I usually wear a dress or light top with shorts or pants) when it’s warm and remember to apply sunblock – Oaxaca’s sun can be quite harsh.
• Remember to also bring: Sunblock, reusable market bags, baby wipes, a travel umbrella (I’ve been caught in unexpected torrential downpours) and water (it can get quite hot in the summer and although you can always buy refreshing drinks at the market, it’s nice to have your own water bottle). I also like to take reusable sealed containers if I plan on taking home any food or drinks. 

BARGAINING, SAFETY, PHOTOS, AND OTHER TIPS

• Bargain respectfully: Haggling is common at the markets (and in Mexico), but be sure to do so respectfully. I have found that prices in Oaxaca are fair, and although you can haggle a bit, don’t risk offending a vendor by offering half of the asking price for an item. PRO TIP: Ask if there’s a different price if you buy several items from the same vendor. Keep in mind that in Oaxaca, prices are already quite low for handmade textiles, art, and other items. Also vendors often travel quite a distance to sell at the market. 
• Ask before taking photos: Ask for permission before taking photos of items, vendor stands, and especially of people!
• Try different foods: Markets in Oaxaca are known for their delicious traditional foods, so be sure to sample as many of the local specialties as your heart desires. 
• Be aware of your surroundings: Like any busy market, these can be crowded and chaotic at times. Be aware of your surroundings and keep an eye on your belongings to avoid pickpockets or other theft.
• Maintain your sense of direction: Upon arrival, take note of prominent landmarks within the market, such as the main entrances, major intersections, or notable stalls. I will usually save the address of one of the local businesses in my Google Maps. Pay attention to the direction you’re walking and try to maintain a mental map of your surroundings and landmarks that can help you retrace your steps if you get lost.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

Are Oaxaca markets expensive?

Prices are generally reasonable especially for handmade items, but bargaining is common and expected in many stalls, especially for artisan crafts. Food is usually inexpensive and a great way to sample local cuisine without spending much.

Can I bargain in Oaxaca markets?

Yes, bargaining is often acceptable, especially for crafts and non-food items. However, it’s recommended to negotiate respectfully and not push too hard, especially on food prices.

What is the most famous market in Oaxaca?

The most famous market in Oaxaca City is Mercado Benito Juárez. Known for its vibrant stalls, it offers a variety of local foods, crafts, and textiles. It’s a must-visit for those looking to experience Oaxacan culture, cuisine, and handmade goods all in one place.

Outside of Oaxaca Centro, I would argue that Tlacolula Sunday market is probably the most famous when it comes to días de mercado (market days), where aside from the brick-and-mortar mercado, people from all over the world come to eat and shop at the vibrant tianguis or outdoor market that also takes place.

What is “market day” in Oaxaca?

Oaxaca City doesn’t have a specific “market day” as its main markets, like Mercado Benito Juárez and Mercado 20 de Noviembre, are open daily. However, surrounding towns have designated market days, such as Tlacolula on Sundays, Etla on Wednesdays, and Zaachila on Thursdays, which are all worth visiting as each market is unique in its own right.

Is Oaxaca safe?

Yes, Oaxaca is generally safe for tourists, especially those visiting popular areas like Oaxaca City and its markets. It’s a welcoming destination with vibrant culture, amazing food, and friendly locals. However, like any travel destination, it’s important to be mindful of your surroundings. Petty crime, like pickpocketing, can happen, so keep your belongings secure in crowded places such as markets or festivals. Stick to well-lit areas at night and use reputable transportation like registered taxis or ride-sharing apps. Although when I’m in the centro histórico, I typically walk everywhere.

For foodies, Oaxaca’s street food is delicious and typically safe to eat at busy stalls where locals gather. Drinking bottled water and practicing common-sense hygiene is recommended. Overall, with a bit of caution and awareness, Oaxaca is a fantastic and safe destination for first-time visitors eager to explore its rich culinary traditions.

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This post was originally published April 10, 2014 and updated with more helpful informationa and images on September 12, 2024.

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