Ultimate Oaxaca Travel Guide: Where to Eat, Shop, and Visit

This Oaxaca travel guide brings together some of my favorite food experiences, local markets, activities, and places to visit – all based on firsthand experience. Whether you’re planning your first trip or returning for more mezcal and mole, here you’ll find everything you need to explore Oaxaca like a pro!

People ask me all the time what to do in Oaxaca. This is because I’ve been traveling there regularly since 2006 for business and pleasure (mostly pleasure!). I even had the unique opportunity to spend several months in and around Oaxaca City conducting field research for my graduate thesis in 2012. So I’ve put together this guide, all based on first-hand experience. 

Food and Drink Activities in Oaxaca

Almú Tilcajete

• Almú is currently my favorite restaurant in Oaxaca! It’s about an hour outside of Oaxaca City, but well worth the trip.
• Food is prepared in an outdoor kitchen with wood-burning stoves. The restaurant is off of a dirt road, but once you walk in, it feels like you’re in a beautiful botanical garden.
• Pro Tip: If you’re hungry, the mole trio is great to share. We also loved the unique agua fresca flavors and cocktails.
• Location: Progreso s/n, 71506 San Martín Tilcajete, Oax San Martín Tilcajete, 71510 Oaxaca, Oax., Mexico

El Escapulario

• This modest restaurant in the Centro Histórico has been around since I visited Oaxaca in 2006. It’s a simple cafe that offers a very affordable menú del dia where everything tastes homemade.
• Pro Tip: If you’re lucky, you can sit at the small corner table with the street view of Garcia Vigil. Remember to take cash, because it’s a cash-only establishment.
• Location: C. de Manuel García Vigil 617, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca de Juárez, Oax., Mexico

Las Tlayudas de Mina y Bustamante

• This is a must-try street vendor in Oaxaca, especially for a late-night snack. My friends in Oaxaca introduced me to the tlayudas here, and they’re better than any I’ve tasted in the fancier restaurants.
• Pro Tip: I love, love, love the chocolateatole drink – it’s not something you’ll find in many restaurants, so be sure to try it!
• Location: C. de Carlos María Bustamante 322, OAX_RE_BENITO JUAREZ, Centro, 68000 Ejido del Centro, Oax., Mexico

Manolo Nieves

• Also known as Museo de las Nieves, this Oaxacan ice cream shop offers a variety of unique ice creams and sorbets. I love to experiment with new flavors, like albahaca (basil) and beso Oaxaqueño (Oaxacan kiss), but my favorite is usually a combo of passion fruit and coconut. There are several locations, too but I like this one.
• Location:  C. Macedonio Alcalá 706, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca de Juárez, Oax., Mexico

Origen Oaxaca

• I’ve never had a bad meal here, and the ambiance is beautiful! Dishes are contemporary, thoughtful, seasonal, and celebrate Oaxaca’s vibrant ingredients.
• Pro Tip: Go for lunch for a calmer experience, or book ahead if you’re planning dinner — it’s a favorite with locals and visitors alike. Also, save room for dessert — no matter what you pick, it’ll be amazing!
• Location: Calle Hidalgo 403, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca de Juárez, Oax., Mexico

Tortas La Hormiga

• This is actually a food truck – nothing fancy – where the kids and I love to grab a torta. We sit on a nearby bench to people and bird watch.
• Pro Tip: Pick up a few tortas before heading out on a day trip to Hierve el Agua!
• Location: Valentín Gómez Farias S/N, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca de Juárez, Oax., Mexico

Mezcaleria Los Amantes

• Los Amantes is one of the first places I ever tasted mezcal back in 2006.
• Pro Tip: Here, you can taste three small-production mezcals for only $100 pesos. This place reminds me of the scene on the movie Frida, where somebody picks a fight with Diego (Alfred Molina) and a brawl ensues. It’s a perfect place to drink, sing, and be jolly. Just don’t ask for something smooth (like you might do with a scotch or whiskey) because they’ll probably laugh in your face.
• Location:  Ignacio Allende 107, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca de Juárez, Oax., Mexico

Must-See Cultural Landmarks in Oaxaca

El Árbol del Tule

• One of the widest trees in the world, this 1,400-year-old Montezuma cypress is a quick and memorable stop near Oaxaca City.
• Highlight: There are plenty of restaurants nearby to have lunch!

Hierve el Agua

• I’ve never seen anything like Hierve el Agua – it’s an otherworldly landscape of petrified waterfalls, cliffside mineral-rich pools of water, and panoramic views of Oaxaca’s valleys.
• Pro Tip: Be sure to stop by El Encanto for a mezcal tasting with Teoldardo (pictured below). He’s one of the producers along the road who still makes artisanal mezcal in small batches.

Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca

• This is a guided-only botanical garden showcasing the most interesting native plants central to Oaxacan food, medicine, and culture.
• Highlights: The garden showcases just how biodiverse Oaxaca truly is. It’s also a beautiful event space. It’s located in the Centro Histórico, about 3 minutes walking distance from the entrance of the Santo Domingo Cathedral.
• Pro Tip: Keep in mind that you can only visit the Ethnobotanical Garden with a guided tour, and English tours are limited, so be sure to check the schedule ahead of time when planning your Oaxaca itinerary.

Mitla Ancient Ruins

• Mitla is the second most important archeological site in the state of Oaxaca and the most significant ceremonial center of the Zapotec culture. It’s Zapotec name, Lyobaa, means place of rest because it’s considered a sacred burial site by the Zapotec.
• Mitla is known for its intricate geometric stone mosaics, unique in Mesoamerica, plus a lively town for shopping.
• Highlight: Leave time for shopping in the town, where many textiles are actually handmade on pedal looms.

Monte Alban Ancient Ruins

• These UNESCO-listed Zapotec ruins are just outside of Oaxaca City.
• Highlight: Here, you’ll see pyramids, temples, plazas, and sweeping 360-degree views of the valley below.
• Pro Tip: My husband has biked to Monte Albán from Oaxaca City, making the journey part of the experience.

Cooking Classes in Oaxaca

Oaxaca is a food lover’s paradise, and one of the best ways to experience it is through a hands-on cooking class. From traditional Zapotec dishes to family recipes passed down for generations, these classes give you a taste of Oaxacan cuisine, markets, and culture. I’ve taken over 30 cooking classes in Oaxaca throughout the years, and there are always new instructors popping. Here’s my personal list to help guide you in selecting one that’s a fit for you.

Alma de Mi Tierra, Nora Valencia

Nora’s classes focus on authentic Oaxacan dishes, blending recipes from her grandmother with her own creations. Includes:

• 1-9 participants
• Local market tour and hands-on cooking in Nora’s cozy home kitchen
• Four-course sit-down meal with class participants: salsa, appetizer, soup, main, fruit drink, dessert + mezcal tasting
• Price: $85 USD | Time: 4-5 hours, Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday at 10AM | Language: English or Spanish

Casa Crespo, Oscar Carrizosa

Oscar’s classes connect the ancient heritage of local gastronomy with his contemporary experience. He likes working with local and organic ingredients, many of which are grown on his own farm. Includes:

• Oscar’s 4.5-hour Flavors of Oaxaca class offers tour of Sanchez Pascuas organic market
• Learn to prepare tortillas in three different styles, three different ancestral sauces, two appetizers, soup, mole, dessert and a traditional drink and enjoy the meal with class participants
• Oscar offers a variety of class options, ranging from 1.5-hour focused workshops to 4.5-hour classes where you learn to make a variety of dishes
• Price: $1,350 MXN | Time: 4.5 hours Tuesday – Sunday at 10AM | Language: English / Spanish

Casa de los Sabores, Pilar Cabrera

Led by chef and La Olla restaurant owner Pilar Cabrera, classes are a hands-on exploration of local ingredients, traditional tools, and family recipes. Includes:

• Group class with 3-8 participants (there are also private classes available with a minimum of 2 participants)
• Mercado de la Merced tour + mezcal tasting and multi-course meal with class participants
• Price: $1,800 MXN | Time: 4-5 hours Mondays and Wednesdays | Language: English / Spanish

Chef Rodolfo Castellanos, Origen Restaurant

It’s not every day you have the unique opportunity to cook alongside the winner of Top Chef Mexico! Classes aren’t advertised, but you can inquire about them at Origen restaurant. This was one of the most comprehensive classes I’ve ever taken. I think I paid about $100 USD for a class that lasted at least 8 hours. Includes:

• Local market tour for ingredients and a light breakfast
• Menu focuses on modern interpretations of classic Oaxacan dishes Chef Rodolfo learned from the traditional cooks in his family
• Classes are not regularly advertised and typically arranged through Origen restaurant, private or custom inquiries, or specialized culinary tour operators
• Price: ~$100USD | Time: ~8 hours (classes available upon request)

El Sabor Zapoteco, Reyna Mendoza

Reyna’s classes focus on traditional Zapotec dishes and culture, with roundtrip transportation from hotels in Oaxaca City to Teotitlán del Valle. Includes:

• Group class with 4 – 12 participants
• Hot chocolate & sweet bread upon arrival
• Local market tour + hands-on outdoor cooking in traditional kitchen
• Group meal with appetizers, entrees, dessert, drinks, and mezcal / beer
• Price: $95 USD | Time: 6.5 hours Tue & Fri at 8:30AM (or on request)

Sabores de Soledad, Soledad Ramirez Haras

Soledad’s classes take place in her home kitchen and are tailored to your requests (or pre-set menus). Includes:

• Market visit to buy ingredients
• Hot chocolate made with her homemade chocolate
• Hands-on class where participants make 1–2 main entrees (we made chocolate tablets, caldo de gallina, and mole)
• Price: ~$40 / 500 MXN | Time: 4 hours | Language: Spanish

Seasons of My Heart, Kaelin Ulrich Trilling

Formerly led by Chef Susana Trilling, Chef Kaelin Ulrich Trilling now guides students through a full-day immersion into Oaxaca’s vibrant cuisine. Class includes:

• Tour of the Central de Abastos Market in Oaxaca City with the opportunity to try all the flavors of tamales, barbacoa and the iconic beverage of the gods tejate.
• Roundtrip transportation from downtown Oaxaca to Seasons of My Heart Cooking School in Rancho Aurora in Etla
• Hands-on experience of preparing dishes step by step, learning techniques and tasting along the way.
• Price: $130 USD | Time: 7 hours Wednesdays at 9AM – 4PM | Language: English / Spanish

Where to Shop in Oaxaca

In my opinion, Oaxaca has some of the best shopping in all of Mexico. There’s literally a ruta de artesanias, which is where most of the beautiful art and handmade items that you see in Oaxaca and throughout all of Mexico is produced. Whether you’re looking for handcrafted textiles, pottery, huaraches, or alebrijes, the options to shop locally and support local artisans is here. If you’re limited on time, here are my favorite places to shop where you’ll find a lot of different options, all in one place!

Mercado de Artesanias

• Here you’ll find everything from huipiles, handwoven rugs, pottery, and alebrijes, to belts, shoes, and other handmade items all under one roof.
• Highlight: Many of the vendors actually make the items they’re selling here, therefore prices are fair and haggling isn’t really necessary.
• Location: Gral. Ignacio Zaragoza, OAX_RE_BENITO JUAREZ, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca de Juárez, Oax., Mexico

Mujeres Artesanas de las Regiones de Oaxaca (MARO)

• This is a small women’s cooperative where you can shop for some great gifts all in one place! I bought beautifully embroidered pillowcases, embroidered baby tees that I’ve never seen anywhere else, hand-painted decorative wooden hearts, small pottery, tin chargers, organic vanilla, silver earrings, and unique beaded keychains.
• Highlight: Women who are part of this cooperative receive a fair wage for their work. Also, you can pay with a credit card so sky’s the limit!
• Location: C. de Manuel García Vigil 204, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca de Juárez, Oax., Mexico

Weekly Tianguis (Open-Air Markets) in Oaxaca

One thing that never lacks in Oaxaca is a good mercado to shop for local products and produce. There are larger, tianguis-style markets that take place throughout the region once a week, and daily markets. Here are a few of my favorites:

Wednesday Etla Market

• If you want to taste the best quesillo (Oaxaca cheese) and tamales in all of Oaxaca, you must visit this market!
• Highlights: Great place to see the hustle and bustle of traditional weekly market in a small-town setting. I’ve shopped for beautifully embroidered dish towels, cacao beans, seeds, and other artesanías here.
• Location: ~8 miles (about 20-30 minutes) outside of Oaxaca City

Thursday Zaachila Market

• Zaachila is a smaller alternative to Tlacolula and has great local cheeses, produce, herbs, corn, cacao, and cooked dishes.
• Foods to try at the Zaachila Mercado Gastronómico include: barbacoa, freshly cut sugarcane (you can add hot sauce!), agua fresca de chilacayote, tacos (they’re huge, start with one!), pan dulce (the one with red sugar on top), quesadilla con flor de calabaza, and tejate – a traditional Oaxacan drink once reserved for royalty. Tajete is made of corn, rosita de cacao, and matey fruit pits.
• Highlights: Once you fill your belly at the food market, walk about 5 minutes to the tianguis to shop for fruits, bread, and handmade items. Be sure to arrive early so you have time to do both! This is where I like to buy my sal de gusano, chicatanas, and huipiles at a very reasonable price!
• Location: 13 miles (~15-30 minutes) outside of Oaxaca City

Friday Ocotlán de Morelos Market

• This market is a little bit further than the others, but worth visiting. We loved the tacos, but people rave about the empanadas de amarillo and barbacoa.
• Highlights: It’s less touristy than Tlacolula’s Sunday market and people like to go here to eat at the famous La Cocina de Frida. You can also shop for leather goods, hats, hammocks, woven baskets, wooden cooking utensils, and so much more!
• Location: 20 miles (~45 minutes) outside of Oaxaca City

Sunday: Tlacolula Market

• This is one of the oldest markets in Mesoamerica and is a great place to experience something different from the typical mercados in Oaxaca.
• Here you can find fresh produce, prepared food, and anything else from adorable miniatures to large stone metates and molcajetes, beautifully embroidered aprons and textiles, handmade hats, and heavy-duty tortilla presses. They even sell live animals here!
• Highlight: Eating freshly grilled tasajo in the Pasillo de Humo and drinking fresh agua de coco, tejate, and agua de naranja!
• Pro Tip: There are plenty of places to eat, and if you’re feeling adventurous, go to the indoor area that’s really smokey (Pasillo de Humo), buy some raw tasajo, nopales, onions, and chile de agua, and have it grilled there. You can eat it outside near the church with some warm tortillas!
• Location: 19 miles (30-45 minutes) outside of Oaxaca City

For more on Oaxaca’s vibrant markets, check out my blog posts: Top 3 Oaxaca Markets Every Food Lover Should Visit and Oaxaca Markets: Tlacolula, A Feast for the Senses.

Daily Markets in Oaxaca

Oaxaca City markets buzz every day with local flavors and life. They overflow with fresh produce, traditional moles, medicinal herbs, cheese, and so much more. Here are a few of my favorites to check out in the city.

20 de Noviembre

• This market is great for eating and shopping, although I find the prices a little higher than at the Mercado de Artesanías.
• Here you’ll find anything from dry moles to sandals, hats, textiles, and pottery. It’s a great place to buy little jícaras (those cute little gourds used to serve mezcal).
• Location: 20 de Noviembre 512, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca de Juárez, Oax., Mexico

Mercado de la Merced

• This is one of my favorite places for a simple and delicious breakfast in the city. I love the chile con huevo, over-easy eggs swimming in a spicy chile and tomato broth, served with black beans and a warm corn tortilla.
• Highlight: I like that it’s smaller in size, relative to some of the other markets. Here you can find fresh fruit and produce, papel picado, and lots of other locally made crafts.
• Pro Tip: I love buying bags of the spicy peanuts with garlic and dry chile peppers as gifts for friends and family. The family who sells them at one of the entrances makes them, too!
• Location: Av. José María Morelos 1522A, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Centro, Oax., Mexico

Sánchez Pascuas Market

• This small market specializes in fresh organic produce, homemade food, and local crafts.
• Highlight: I love the stands with medicinal herbs! Also, you must try a delicious chile relleno in the prepared food area! They are spicy, stuffed with chicken picadillo, and made with chile de agua, a pepper native to Oaxaca.
• Pro Tip: Pick up some spicy chapulines, salsa, and warm corn tortillas for a delicious DIY snack.
• Location: Calle Porfirio Díaz, Calle de Tinoco y Palacios 719, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca de Juárez, Oax., Mexico

Off The Beaten Path Experiences

There are so many ways you can spend your time in Oaxaca, but a few of the most enjoyable experiences for me have included a little rest and relaxation, learning, and chocolate-making!

Traditional Temazacal

• Relax and purify your soul! A temazcal is a pre-Hispanic sweat lodge that offers many health benefits and dates back to pre-Hispanic indigenous cultures of Mesoamerica.

Make Your Own Mexican Chocolate

• There are very few places in Mexico where you can actually make your own chocolate. In Oaxaca, there are chocolate shops with molinos (mills) just about everywhere. Here, they will suggest a recipe (or you can create your own) and grind the ingredients for you. Then you will go home (to your hotel or apartment) with a warm chocolate paste that you have to form into tablets and allow to harden and cool. These make perfect gifts for your friends who love food!
• My Preferred Recipe: 1 kilo cocoa beans + 2 ounces almonds + 1 ounce cinnamon + 2 kilos sugar (this will yield plenty of chocolate paste for tablets!)

Visit San Martin Tijcajete

• The taller de Jacobo y María Ángeles is the largest and best-known in the area (and internationally) for its alebrijes and has a well organized tour for visitors. They make a conscious effort to train the next generation of artists, too.
• Learn how colorful alebrijes are carved from wood and transformed into colorful whimsical animal sculptures.
• Highlight: You can visit their restaurant, Almú, after your tour!
• Location: Libres 5, Col. Centro, 71506 San Martín Tilcajete, Oax., Mexico

Getting Around Oaxaca

Most of the Centro Histórico is very walkable. If you’re venturing outside of the city center, getting around is part of the adventure!

• For a local experience, hop on a colectivo. These are shared taxis that run from the Central de Abastos to nearby towns. They’re cheap and cozy (you’ll be packed in with other passengers). Good to Know: You’ll be sitting very close to complete strangers. Three people ride in the back and three people in the front, including the driver, so you’re pretty much sitting on someone’s lap if you get stuck in the front.
• There are also regular taxis, rental cars and vans, and Uber in the city.
• Buses also run between Oaxaca City and major markets like Tlacolula, Zaachila, and Etla if you’re traveling on a budget.

Looking for More Oaxaca Inspiration?

Be sure to check out the following posts:

• Top 3 Oaxaca Markets Every Food Lover Should Visit
• Oaxaca Markets: Tlacolula, A Feast for the Senses
• Queso Oaxaca (Oaxaca Cheese): A Delectable Guide
• Oaxaca Weather: A Comprehensive Guide for Travelers
• Where to Stay in Oaxaca: Bed and Breakfasts, Hotels, and Apartments

This blog post was originally published on February 19, 2015 and updated on January 8, 2025.