{TRES DEL MES} A Food Lover’s Guide to 3 Market Days in Oaxaca

 

That’s me in all of my glory on a self-guided market tour in Oaxaca, Photo credit: Lola’s Cocina

That’s me in all of my glory on a self-guided market tour in Oaxaca, Photo credit: Lola’s Cocina

This month, I am introducing the first in a series of guides to Mexico and will begin with three of my favorite market days in Oaxaca. Mercados, or open-air markets, offer insights into the region’s pre-hispanic history, culinary traditions, and the everyday life of its people through their vibrant colors, vivid sounds, and exotic aromas. I have always enjoyed visiting them, even as a child. On a recent trip to Mexico, I fell in love with the mercados of Oaxaca – each just a short trip from the city center and unique in its own regard. Below is a guide to three of my personal favorites.   

Wednesday Etla Market
If you want to taste the best quesillo (Oaxacan string cheese) and tamales in all of Oaxaca, you must visit this market! But be sure to leave room for other treats, like homemade ice cream, nicuatole – a pre-Hispanic dessert made of corn and sugar, and spicy chiles rellenos made with local chiles de agua. I also found beautifully embroidered dishtowels, ceramics, and other handmade items at reasonable prices.

Location: 30 minutes north of Oaxaca City

Prepared Foods at the Wednesday Etla Market, Photo Credit: Lola's Cocina

Prepared foods at the Etla Market, Photo credit: Lola’s Cocina

Homemade Cheese and Strawberry, Photo Credit: Lola's Cocina

Cheese and prickly pear ice cream, Photo credit: Lola’s Cocina

Delicious chicken and red chile tamal, Photo credit: Lola's Cocina

Delicious chicken and red chile tamal, Photo credit: Lola’s Cocina

Thursday Zaachila Market
Foods to try at the Zaachila market include barbacoa, freshly-cut sugar cane (¡con limón y chile!), and tejate – a traditional chocolate-maize drink once reserved for royalty. I bought some of my favorite huipiles (ethnic blouses) for under $12 USD at this market.

Location: 20 minutes south of Oaxaca City

Tejate, a Drink Once Reserved for the Gods, Photo Credit: Lola's Cocina

Tejate, a drink once reserved for the gods, Photo credit: Lola’s Cocina

Hustle and bustle of Zaachila's Thursday market day, Photo credit: Lola's Cocina

Hustle and bustle of Zaachila’s Thursday market day, Photo credit: Lola’s Cocina

Common Sight at Mercados - Women Carrying Baskets on Their Heads, Photo Credit: Lola's Cocina

Common sight at Oaxaca’s mercados, Photo credit: Lola’s Cocina

 

Freshly cut sugar cane and tunas (prickly pears) with lime and chile make a great snack in Zaachila, Photo credit: Lola's Cocina

Freshly cut sugar cane and tunas (prickly pears) with lime and chile make a great snack in Zaachila, Photo credit: Lola’s Cocina

Sunday Tlacolula Market
This is one of the oldest markets in Mesoamerica and is a great place to experience something different from the typical mercados in Oaxaca. Here, you can find fresh produce, prepared food, and everything from adorable miniature food magnets and large stone metates to beautifully embroidered aprons and heavy-duty tortilla presses! My favorite part of this market was watching the indigenous women, many of whom come from the surrounding mountain areas, as they bargained in their native Zapotec language, wearing floral scarves or rebozos (shawls) wrapped messily around their heads. Be sure to try some traditional breads, an empanada, and a tlayuda before you return to the city.

Location: 30 minutes southeast of Oaxaca City

Local Woman Shopping at the Sunday Tlacolula Market

Local woman shopping at the Sunday Tlacolula market – many women wear aprons, bright ribbons in their hair, and shawls draped over their shoulders or wrapped around their heads, Photo credit: Lola’s Cocina

Black bean and chicken tlayuda with salsita - YUM!, Photo credit: Lola's Cocina

Black bean and chicken tlayuda with salsita – YUM!, Photo credit: Lola’s Cocina

Metate: Stone Tools Used to Grind Ingredients for Chocolate, Mole, and Other Mexican Dishes, Photo Credit: Lola's Cocina

Metates are stone tools used to grind ingredients for chocolate, mole, salsa, and other Mexican dishes, Photo credit: Lola’s Cocina

Beautifully Embroidered Aprons from Oaxaca, Photo Credit: Lola's Cocina

Beautifully embroidered aprons from Oaxaca, Photo credit: Lola’s Cocina

Before you embark on a journey to Oaxaca’s markets, here are a few tips to keep in mind:

  • Be polite and ask vendors for permission before you take pictures. One woman yelled at me for taking a picture of her stand without permission!
  • I recommend taking a colectivo (shared taxi) when traveling outside of downtown Oaxaca – this is one of the most inexpensive means of transportation. A trip to any of the mercados mentioned above should cost under $3 USD from the Abastos market. All taxis have their destination in large letters across the front windshield, so you’ll know what to look out for. When in doubt, ask which taxis go to the particular market you want to visit!
  • $10 USD should be more than enough to fill your belly at any of these markets, but take plenty of pesos for shopping! I have found that prices in Oaxaca are usually fair, and although you can haggle a bit (it’s in our blood!), don’t risk offending a vendor by offering half of the asking price for an item.

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Categories: Travel, TRES DEL MES

8 Comments on “{TRES DEL MES} A Food Lover’s Guide to 3 Market Days in Oaxaca”

  1. Esther
    April 10, 2014 at 9:42 pm #

    Me encantan tus fotos, tus comentarios sobre lo lindo que es Mexico y tus recetas. Sigue Lola, vas muy bien!

    • April 22, 2014 at 12:19 am #

      Mil gracias, Esther! Ojalá nos veamos pronto.

  2. April 20, 2014 at 3:17 pm #

    Lola, These great pics remind me of my days in wonderful Oaxaca. Thanks! I am reposting 🙂

    • April 22, 2014 at 12:20 am #

      Thank you! There are so many beautiful things to photograph in Oaxaca and the colors are always so vibrant.

  3. Paul
    December 26, 2015 at 1:22 am #

    Hola buenas noches, tal vez no es el medio pero me atreveré a preguntar, la foto de los metates de que parte es? Soy del df y he pensado ir a Oaxaca esa tierra maravillosa para comprar uno solo que no se por dónde huscar

    • December 26, 2015 at 8:40 am #

      Sí. La foto de los metates la tomé en Oaxaca, en el mercado de Tlacolula que es los domingos.

Trackbacks/Pingbacks

  1. Lola’s Guide to Oaxaca | Lola's Cocina - February 19, 2015

    […] MERCADOS BY DAY: OPEN AIR MARKETS IN OAXACA Wednesday: Etla Market If you want to taste the best quesillo (Oaxacan cheese) and tamales in all of Oaxaca, you must visit this market! I also found beautifully embroidered dishtowels and other artesanias (folk art). […]

  2. {COMADRES CORNER} Interview with La Reyna del Sur: El Sabor Zapoteco’s Reyna Mendoza Ruiz | Lola's Cocina - March 24, 2017

    […] MORE OAXACA TRAVEL INSPIRATION: Lola’s Guide to Oaxaca {TRES DEL MES} A Food Lover’s Guide to 3 Market Days in Oaxaca Five cooking schools to try in Oaxaca. Written in collaboration with Lesley Tellez, The Mija […]

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